Defining a new paradigm for Italian biodynamics: this was the explicit request with which Professor Mario Fregoni—one of Italy’s most respected and influential scholars and professors in the field of viticulture and oenology—concluded his speech at the 2nd Conference on Modern Biodynamic Viticulture and Winemaking, held on June 12, 2010, at the Villa Medicea in Cerreto Guidi, with the support and sponsorship of the Municipality of Cerreto Guidi, in collaboration with the Superintendency for the Historical, Artistic and Ethno-Anthropological Heritage and the Museum Hub of the City of Florence, and the sponsorship of other prestigious institutions and associations, coordinated by Viticolturabiodinamica.it.
This call confirms the achievement of one of the conference’s key goals: to bring together around the same table representatives of different theoretical and practical approaches to viticulture and oenology—and beyond.
The conference opened with an introduction by the moderator, journalist and director Felice Cappa, who referenced the definition of “scientific paradigm” as formulated by Thomas S. Kuhn in his 1962 book The Structure of Scientific Revolutions. In what is now considered a foundational text of postwar epistemology, the American philosopher clearly explains that research never proceeds in a linear, continuous fashion, but rather through ruptures that require reformulating the very nature of the subject under investigation. Every paradigm defines a specific field of research, within which questions are asked and answers are sought by scientists. Anything outside this predefined scope is considered non-scientific. However, when research encounters phenomena that cannot be explained within these limits, a “crisis” within the paradigm arises, forcing the scientific community to develop new frameworks for study.
Cappa proposed this as the backdrop for the day’s discussion, emphasizing how the current crisis in so-called “normal science” is driven in large part by the need for fairer redistribution of economic resources and for sustainability in research and progress in harmony with ecosystem health. It is clear that today’s contradiction lies in the fact that scientific research is increasingly detached from public interest and almost entirely dependent on private funding, often driven by purely economic and commercial objectives.
Mario Fregoni provided a compelling contribution in response to these points, sharing a significant development: institutions such as the OIV and the academic scientific community have now recognized the human factor as a fourth essential element—alongside grape variety, soil and climate—in defining “terroir.”
A substantial portion of his talk focused on humus and soil fertility, presenting his latest research and findings on the subject.
Professor Fregoni concluded by opening a dialogue with biodynamic research, expressing interest in further exploring possible convergences. He referenced concepts like quantum theory, which point to energy—an often intangible yet vital force—as a key player in all natural life processes.
Next came an address by Fabio Picchi, chef and creative force behind a cuisine grounded in human connection. Speaking about emotional intelligence, Picchi highlighted how instinct—something that cannot be reduced to quantitative parameters—is a powerful guide in recognizing the quality of raw ingredients and their potential for nourishing, transformative cooking. He interpreted “terroir” as a sense of belonging, and through his own life story, stressed the importance of the deep network of relationships between history, place, and people.
Luca Maroni, sensory analyst and declared empiricist, shared his recent appreciation for the tangible results of biodynamic practices in the field and in the fruit. However, he expressed reservations about biodynamic practices in the cellar, stating that, based on his tasting parameters, winemaking remains the most critical area where the clash between conventional and biodynamic paradigms is still ongoing.
The tasting of “i vini biodinamici”, produced using the modern biodynamic method both in vineyard and cellar, was led by sommelier Andrea Gori. This enjoyable and insightful session offered a practical application of sensory analysis.
Wines tasted included:
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Pignoletto 2009 from Vigneto San Vito (compared with another Pignoletto from the same estate, made from biodynamic grapes but vinified conventionally)
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Rucantù 2007, Tenuta Selvadolce, Pigato Riviera Ligure di Ponente
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Il Barbera 2008, Casa Wallace
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Verdugo 2007, Masiero
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Brunello di Montalcino 2005, Stella di Campalto
(All video tasting notes are available on the blog of digital sommelier Andrea Gori: http://vinodaburde.simplicissimus.it)
The afternoon session began with a third contribution not directly related to viticulture and winemaking, but to the scientific method itself. Dr. Sergio Maria Francardo, an anthroposophical doctor from Milan, spoke passionately and in detail about how medical research is heavily influenced by pharmaceutical industry interests. Even proven effective remedies, he said, are often discarded or sidelined due to market laws that reward the chronicization of illness—turning patients into long-term consumers.
Throughout his talk, Dr. Francardo consistently emphasized the need for and effectiveness of a holistic approach to understanding phenomena—both in medicine and in agriculture.
Enzo Mescalchin, head of the experimental agriculture and sustainable farming unit at the San Michele all’Adige Agricultural Institute, presented the results of a comparative study conducted over a three-year conversion period. The research compared management costs between two conventional vineyards and one managed using modern biodynamics in Trentino. The findings clearly showed that costs were essentially equivalent—debunking the myth that biodynamic agriculture is economically unsustainable.
Leonello Anello, agronomist and veteran biodynamic researcher, closed the day with a contribution aimed at redefining the concept of “terroir.” He proposed replacing the French term with the Latin “genius loci”, a term that not only includes climate, place, grape variety, and the human factor—as described by Fregoni—but also embraces elemental beings referenced by Steiner and, more broadly, the cosmic relationships that underpin biodynamic agriculture and winemaking. “Genius loci,” in this sense, highlights the link between earth and sky, remaining firmly grounded in the anthroposophical context where biodynamic practice belongs.
Anello also addressed Professor Fregoni with a compelling appeal: that he advocate, within the prestigious OIV, for the creation of an international oenological code for biodynamic wine. Drawing from the long experience of producers of “i vini biodinamici” and numerous scientific studies, such a code could be distilled to a single prescription: the optional use of sulphur dioxide (SO₂).
In the core of his talk, Anello discussed the role of spontaneous fermentation in producing “i vini biodinamici.” He asserted that calling a wine biodynamic is not only legitimate but also appropriate, as long as the must is managed using the elements air and fire, and their corresponding ethers—light and warmth. To free growers from the fears spread—often out of self-interest or ignorance—by many in the wine sector, Anello summarized decades of spontaneous fermentation experience, clearly distinguishing between abandoned fermentations and spontaneous ones. In the former, the must is left to ferment without guidance, resulting in microbial imbalances and flawed aromas. In the latter, the process is intentionally directed and supported.
Anello emphasized that every fermentation event, far from being explained solely by Gay-Lussac’s chemical formula for alcoholic fermentation, requires an aerobic phase for yeast reproduction before it can proceed through the low-oxygen environment of fermentation.
This key distinction, he argued, makes spontaneous fermentation failures virtually impossible.
Finally, Anello expressed strong interest in Fregoni’s proposal for an Italian biodynamics, affirming that the modern Mediterranean biodynamic approach he has practiced for the past 20 years is already heading in that direction.
During the conference, which welcomed a large and engaged audience, Rita Mulas, Technical Director of the Villa Medicea Conferences, presented a pilot project in applied biodynamics: “Porto Scuso – From Crisis to the Rebirth of a Territory.”
The warm hospitality of Giovanna Damiani, Director of the Villa Medicea, and the support of Carlo Tempesti, Mayor of Cerreto Guidi, helped bring this vibrant day of dialogue and exchange to life—rich in inspiration and proposals for future work.
